We have another deep dive planned this morning. I however went to bed with a terrible hay fever, not helped by the fan which is running because of the heat.  With the aircon being switched off because we are diving the next day and that just makes the allergies worse! It’s a catch 21!
Also a bit of blood in my sinuses so it is a hard decision to cancel the diving. Especially since the weather is fantastic and the sea is calm! In the end we decide to use the last day to take the local bus to Grand Baie to do some sightseeing and some last minute curio shopping.  We walk over to the bus stop and wait for about 20 minutes. Some of the locals help us get on the right bus. It is 62 rupees for the 9km trip and what an experience. We sit right in the back because we discover that our South African shoulders are to broad for these 3 seaters. Big mistake because we also discover that the bus does not have any shocks and we feel it at the back – it was more like a roller coaster ride rather than a bus ride.
The little village before Grand Baie looks likes very interesting spot to get off but Callie is on a mission – yet again. Grand Baie is beautiful with a lot of big boats and touristy shops. Luc buys some expensive berries (and this time he pays for it!). Callie heads straight for the Billabong shop and at this point the tour group splits up. The two of us decide that we can no longer follow Callie into a clothing shop, so we set off on our own. We discover that the large UMark is just around the corner and we pop in there (for more than an hour) to finish all our curio shopping! We are very impressed with our shopping – which includes French chocolate.
We end up with a few large bags which we spilt between us. Now we follow the road back home – the plan to walk a bit until we find a bus stop. Luc immediately stops at the first, but I would like to wonder on a bit. With much protest he walks to the next and the next. After which he becomes as “steeks as ‘n donkie”. I have to bribe him to get him to walk to the next stop. We pass many interesting sites. The local library which looks about 100 years old, the detective services, a stunning Hindu temple and a mafia meeting (check the photo!).
By the third bus stop Luc refuses to go any further. So, we wait and wait and wait. We miss a bus to Port Louis because we do not realise we can take this bus. Eventually we get on a Pamplemouse bus (this is after waiting for nearly 30 minutes – we could have walked another 3 bus stops!). In the end we got dumped at the beginning of Trou Aux Bitches in front of Beachcombers. We discover they have the best bus stop in town – a beautiful stone one with benches which we immediately invade as it is 1 and very hot outside. We then also discover that most of the busses take a left turn here and do not go straight to our villa!
Eventually we decide to cross the road and wait on the other side of the crossing as we will be sure any bus on this route will stop at our place. After another 25 minute wait I am ready to walk, but Luc is complaining bitterly. As I am about to start walking a bus comes around the corner and Luc runs to stop it. “Veranda Hotel?” is all I can get out – just to make sure we are on the right route – no way I am taking another bus or walking another meter! “Wi”  says the bus driver. As we speed pass Scuba Doo we see Callie having a drink with Louis. Too late to get off! We can see our villa and the bus stop right in front of the villa coming up. But as we get up the bus driver tells us to sit down. Oh no- we are on the wrong bus again!  Then I realise what is going on – he ignores the bus stop and stops right in front of the Veranda Hotel – like we asked him! We are in hysterics as we walk back to our villa! More walking!
Callie eventually arrives home – seems that his shopping was much shorter than ours – but much more disastrous! He comes parading out in a bright blue short with white flowers – and his black bulb hat! Oh no! Luc immediately pretends not to know him! We chill out next to the pool for the rest of the afternoon. This is followed by a bit of packing. Not sure how we are going to get all Callie’s clothing shopping home!  As we are busy with late lunch, Louis arrives with a gift of Island Rum and local orange juice – this is his favourite cocktail mix! He is so funny!
Callie goes for a last snorkel. I manage to persuade him not to wear the silly flower shorts, for just in case he is washed out to sea and they have to rescue him in that!  We laugh at him trying to get to deeper water. Our beach is not so great – lots of rocks and shallow reef. Turns out he had a great snorkel in the end – saw another snake eel.  There is also another late afternoon wedding on the beach in front of the Veranda Hotel and we end the day off with a glorious sunset. Cannot believe that our stay here is nearly at an end!

ALIENS IN MAURITIUS

13 OCT - Deep Diving and Scuba doo

SCUBA DOO

SMOOTHIES

REAL SA LUNCH FOR REAL BOERE!

We are up early for our deep dive. I am a bit concerned  because I cannot equalise in my left ear – the same old problem ear, but this dive I am not missing out on! Louis picks us up again and we hang out at his place for a few minutes whilst the boat is being loaded. The sea is much calmer but it is overcast again and the water has an eerie dark grey colour. Callie, who has packed the dive bag, seems to have forgotten just about all our gear! This must be a blessing in disguise with all the leaky combos and self-inflating BCs! This is not the sort of thing you want to deal with on a deep dive!
There are a few tense moments as we all get ready and fall/jump overboard. The whole plan is to get down as quickly as possible to out manoeuvre surface or top currents. I have added extra weights, but still have to flip over and fin down! What is going on! Seems that the African Dignity buttocks are filled with air! Initially all we see is a blue abyss and then way down below I can see the outcrops of a reef with fan coral and fan trees. Before we know it we are down at 30 meters. We then start descending down the side of the reef. It is absolutely stunning. The enormous coral trees of Black Forrest Reef are stunning. These coral trees are actually dark green, but so deep down they look black. We hit the 45 meter mark and I can see the men wanting to go deeper, but the dive briefing said 45 and this is where I stay! Turns out Richard was tempted to do 50, but turned around on 47 because of the same reason.
We stay down here for about 10 minutes after which we slowly start going up on the side of the reef. We are all in decompression time, mostly 3 meters for 3 minutes.  We keep on ascending all along the reef. It has a beautiful landscape of large boulders, coral and lots of fish – including my favourite (!) the Titan Trigger fish (I was attacked by one in Tioman, Malaysia many years ago!).
We spend some time on 30 meters. There is a mild current and it takes us over the Anchor Dive site where we see a six meter plus anchor embedded in the reef. Apparently it dates back from the years of the Portuguese seafarers! Our DM is not ready for a safety stop in the open sea so he makes us swim up against the current. This is hard work, especially if you are the only girl!  We reach the safety stop at 38  minutes and hang around the 6 meter mark. Turns out that Richards 47 meters pushed his deco time. He still has deco on his computer. In the end the rest all decide to finish the dive. With a stunning view of the reef and still enough air left I decide to stay with him whilst he sits it out.  At 45 minutes he is finally clear! On the surface the group cannot stop talking. Seems that even Richard has not yet dived this spot. He says with the Scuba Doo underwater scooters, the dive centre has not attracted our calibre of serious divers and that is why they seldom get the chance to do the great sites.  The other DM, Pepe, has logged more than 4000 dives in Mauritius and he tells us about so more sites. We concoct a plan to bring a group of advanced divers to Mauritius and to persuade Louis to do a package deal where we can do all these dives!
The three DMs are so impressed with this diving that they immediately persuade us to convince Louis to book another deep dive.  No one told Louis that we had planned such a deep dive for today! There is another site that is just as great, so we are keen to do this as well!
Back on shore we pick up an elderly couple from Meyerton who are booked to do the Scuba Doo with Luc. The Scuba Doo is basically little underwater scooters for people who cannot dive. I grab my dive gear and used the last air to dive with them and make a little video for them.  Luc is absolutely in his element. He loves it! We laugh at him because he tries to use his hands (like he does in diving) to control the little scooter!
Back at Louis  we are once again treated to chocolate cake and Louis rum cocktail. Oh man – this is definitely the way to finish a great day of diving!
Luc is still hungry, so Louis drops us at the International Cafe, which belongs to South Africans (Riaan, Louis says!) and where you can get the best imported meat. We order smoothies, a burger and Mauritian chicken Stir Fry. Turns out Riaan is Deon and he is very friendly. They have a little curio shop next door, where mom works. It is only much later whilst we are busy shopping that Deon’s wife pops in. She has recognised us and tells us how much the prayed for us. Their story of how they got to Mauritius is also one of faith. They were told that they were going to come here and it was confirmed twice by strangers. One was a Chinese man who could barely speak English and walked up to them and told them that a “bright man” told him to bring them a message!  They also share with us how difficult it is to work here. They could not find a place to open in the tourist area to open their restaurant and was forced to set up in a Hindu neighbourhood – but this has given them a great insight in the people. Now they are on the main road in Trou Aux Biches, but they are getting a lot of resistance from the locals. When we comment about the outside lampshades (straw hats!) – they tell us that the competition kept on breaking the shade and lights, so this was there solution. Apparently they have also put spells on their restaurant – but luckily they know they are protected! It sounds very similar to the stories Louis has been telling – having to wait 18 months for a license to set up his business.  Up front it all look so idyllic, but when you have to make a living here it is not so easy!
After all the cake, smoothies and enormous meal we are stuffed and take the long road home. Callie decides we have to walk on the beach, but forgot that Luc did not bring his plakkies with. It goes with much complaining of burning feet and eventually he has to abba him!
We chill out for the rest of the afternoon next to the pool. I take some time to make the videos of the Scuba Doo promised to Louis.  We all end up in bed watching Simon’s new X Factor show. Here everything is 2 hours ahead – so when it is on at 7:30 Central African time, it is allready 9:30 – so our clocks are a bit off!

12 Okt Ile Aux Cerfs

Le Toulouse Rock - or something like that!

Finding lunch!

The Princess and her following!

R100 sandwich!

Not our boat, Bonnie!

Getting ready for the boat ride!

Fun in the sun!

Lunch and drinks - check out the drumstick in the middle!

Entertainment!

Fish!

Today is yet another excursion day. This time we are going East – to the idyllic Ile Aux Cerefs. Moya, our SAfrican friend who lives here, recommended this trip. So, you can to it one of many ways. You can book a really expensive tour – that is if you are staying at a really expensive hotel, where they add serious commissions, or you can book with a local travel agent situated in a side street. Then you can also book a day on a catamaran – where your meal and all drinks are included, or you can do the “cheap skate” tour – like we did. Which always promises to be the most fun.
Well, the fun started with the 5 South African (Bonnie, Kerri, Luc, Callie and Myself) forcing our minibus driver to stop at Chez Popo for a good stock of French chocolates. He saw that this shopping was going to take some time so he left us there to pick up the rest of the tour group. About 5 large chocolate bars later, we are picked up. Our fellow tour group, consisting of a very young and very reserved French couple does not seem very impressed with this loud group.
What we did not take into consideration was “Aunti” Cyclone which was causing havoc on the East side of the island. Halfway through our 1 hour trip all we could see was dark cloud, rain and wind – and we are all dressed in swimming costumes and little dresses! So this called for immediate action – we eat one big slab of French chocolate – white with nuts!  The French think we are crazy!
On arrival at Trou Deau Douce we are very reluctant to get out of the car. It is cold and wet and the sea looks rough.  Callie runs across the street, to get the blue tickets that will take us across the rough seas! And guess what – the shop does not sell rain coats, so we are going to be soaking wet.  We are then commanded to the beach, where we join a big group of tourists all looking like “nat hoenders” waiting for a boat. As on que, a great variety of boats, pull up to shore. Luc immediately picks a speedboat with a “200” and for the rest of the day everything is measured by cc’s.  Bonnie immediately refuses to get on that one! I stare in fear at the little tug boat loading in a group of tourists – hope that is not our boat! Callie decides he wants a 200 too and is about to get in when we discover that this is not part of the “cheap skate” tour! Guess what – we get the little tug!
In the end it turns out to be the best bet. The sea is pretty rough on the crossing over to the lagoon area, but we get to see Le Tousserok Hotel from the sea. We all decide that this must be stunning in great weather. Our tug goes around the hotel and enters a lagoon area surrounded by many mangrove plantations. It is really beautiful.
Before we know if we dock on a little jetty.   A bit unsure as to what is going to happen next, Callie tries to establish what the game plan is. We finally figure it out – on the “cheap skate” tour, you are dumped on this side of the lagoon where you can tan, swim, do parasailing, drink and eat for two hours. Well, that is if the sun is shining and you have money. Because to rent a beach chair is Rupees 500 (note the whole trip was Rupees 1000 per person).  So, whilst Bonnie, Kerri and Luc set off for a walk in the lagoon, Callie chats up the lifeguards (hopefully trying to get a discount) and I venture to the sea side looking for snorkelling spots. The wind is howling here – so I quickly join the others.
By now Bonnie and Luc has decided that they are starving – it is now 11 – and Bonnie has seen a faded poster of a pizza at a little tuck shop. We stroll over to the pub on the beach, where we are told that they only make pizzas from 12. Tell Bonnie she can not have pizza when she is hungry (remember she is Miss Roman’s!) and you are in big trouble! When telling the young waiter what will happen when she does not get food, he immediately gets together a table and some chairs and says he will organise some sandwiches for the “princess”. So, there on this beautiful remote island, Bonnie became a princess.
Also there on this remote island, Luc decides he wants a chicken mayonnaise sandwich – the most expensive one he has ever had @ R 100 for a sandwich and chips! And how do R50 for a beer or a coke sounds!  We bump into a young South African couple from Kuruman who is on honeymoon and shares a plate of chips!  After breakfast the group is feeling slightly better and we wonder back +to the jetty as we are being picked up from there for the trip to the waterfall and the lunch spot. Here we find a large group of tourists all sprawled out on the wet beach – tanning in the slight drizzle!
We all decide it is now time for the second chocolate – this time it is the dark 1848 with nuts and orange. Amazing how the chocolate seems to lift our mood on this cloudy day! Luc has now gone off on a mission to find a cheap trip to the marine park for some snorkelling. The start price was Rupees 500 per person on a speed boat. He comes back with another option – Rupees 300 on a glass bottom boat (with a 15cc engine – which does not suit his standards!). Turns out that Callie and Luc are negotiating against each other for the trip.
Finally it is 12 o’clock and once again a whole armada boats converge upon us as we are waiting on the jetty.  This time Luc makes sure we get on a speed boat with a 200 engine. A funny Frenchman with a bright pink shirt and a camera with a lens that goes on forever and his wife/or mother take the seat right in the front. We end up right next to him and Luc, Bonnie and Kerri opposite us.
The boat sets off on a slow cruise down the lagoon with cameras clicking and the funny Frenchman waving at everyone on the catamarans. But then, just as we all begin to chill out, the fun starts. With a shock we discover that we were left in the hands of a lunatic skipper as he opens up the throttle and that 200cc starts to work. This is also when we discover that Bonnie is terrified of boats, especially fast moving ones! Initially she holds on to Luc but minutes later she is on the floor of the boat. Her fear seems to spur on our skipper, who heads straight for islands and then swerve just in time to clear them. It is only when we hear the hysterical shrieks from the front of th boat, that we see what is going on. The funny Frenchman is sitting with his camera high up above his head, pointed at Bonnie’ cleavage (which was now dangerously exposed because of her precarious position on the floor) and he issnapping away. Not bothered by any one else – screaming with delight!
By this time we are all in hysterics – not because of Bonnie, but because of this funny man who looks like a little boy let loose in a car toy shop!  Finally, the boat slows down and we manage to calm Bonnie down enough to tell her what happened.  By now the Funny Frenchman and his partner realised we knew exactly what he was doing, but he seems to get even more pleasure out of our conversation and telling Bonnie what he did – much to the embarrassment of his partner. Of course, by this time, we have decided that she must be his mother and that he still lives at home!
The boat now enters a wide river with high cliffs covered in giant fans and trees. High up in the treetops we see fruit bats hanging upside down.  As we go around a bend in the river, we see a beautiful waterfall ahead of us. It is not large, but has a lot of water coming down. The sight of this causes the funny Frenchman to start shrieking again, which sets off another domino effect – the skippers opens the throttle and heads straight for the falls, Bonnie grabs Luc and the rest of us screams.  The skipper pushes the nose of the boat right into the falls and the funny Frenchman tries to hug the falls! My goodness – I am sure he is going to go home and tell all his mates sharing his office about his wild Island adventure!
The trip back is just as crazy, but this time Bonnie handles it a bit better and even manages to threaten the skipper. Who is now also in love with the “princess”. We are dropped off on another island where we are going to have lunch.  It is very rustic with tables and benches under canvasses on the sandy beach.  It looks like great fun. We are welcomed with a large beer and a bottle of sprite. Soon to be followed by a bottle filled with white sprits and some pineapple. Callie pours some and Kerri realises that this is pure alcohol and you need to mix it with something soft! Much later we notice the French couple (who came on our taxi) drinking this clean. By the time we realise that they have not realised that you need to mix the drink, it is too late – they have just about finished their bottle. And this result in them becoming our entertainment for the afternoon.  They have no idea of how sloshed they are – he poses and she takes photos – each of their own mission without getting anything done!
We are starving and lunch turns out to be the best event of the day (not sure if it was the Jungle Juice!). It starts off with a grilled fish – whos stare makes Princess Bonnie uncomfortable and all Luc wants to do is to pull it’s teeth and put it around his neck. This is followed by toasted French bread, Cabbage salad and the best chicken (we immediately name our waiter Nandos!). Later in the afternoon, three of the waiters pull out some musical instruments and we get a real, local show. We do a bit of island dancing, go for a swim – much to Luc’s embarrassment and are invited to do a local rum tasting. This rum is made on the island and there are various options – rum with vanilla, rum with ginger, rum with orange – and much more – but the best is the rum with chilli. Being SAfrican we do not trust any of this, so we take little sips. But then we see the tasting tray arrive at the table of the Frenchies. And they try it all as quickly as possibly. Knowing what is about to come, we get the camera ready and film the poor girl as she throws the very potent chilli rum down her throat! My goodness – no sign of the very reserved couple we picked up that morning.
Just before 4 we are told that our crazy skipper and speedboat is waiting. Bonnie asks him to marry him so that she can get possession of the boat. He, in true character, opens up the throttle and then invites Bonnie to come and sit on his lap. Then he calls Luc and allows him to steer the boat! Oh my – the wheels, engines, everything just came off on this trip!
The ride back home is great fun – we have fantastic rugby conversations and all sorts of other conversations with the Frenchies. Our taxi driver had enough – we ask him to stop at Chez Popo for some more chocolates – but he saw double trouble and decides to drop Bonnie and Kerri off first. Sies vir hom! (Please note that we finished all the chocolates we bought!).
We are exhausted by the time we get home. Quick dinner, a bit of TV and I am asleep by 9. Remember tomorrow we have a deep dive planned!



Lunch table!



11 OCTOBER

Slow start to the morning. Chilled out, did some washing, some writing, some reading and Luc watched a lot of TV. A bit worried about this Anti Cyclone which is still messing up the sea – wind and rough seas! I asked my Facebook friends what an Anti Cyclone is and Karin Hougaard and Paul Booysen said it is the opposite of Uncle Cyclone – so lyk my ons moet oppas vir die tannie. Well, Louis phones us to tell us that the diving is on and we are all happy. He picks us up at one. At his house we grab gear and then he takes us to the beach where we meet DM, Richard. Sounds that Richard is not keen to take us to the Stella Maru Wreck without doing a checkout dive with us first. He does not trust these South African divers! Well, he has no choice because Louis tells him that we do not have a lot of days left for diving. The Scuba Doo boat is a big cat type boat and it is great to have so much space. The wind however is howling and on our way out it lifts the seat with our towel and takes it straight to sea. Thank goodness I just picked up my dive computer from the seat otherwise it would have been down under! We kit up very quickly. Back at the boat it is either the option of a back roll from a very high beam or a giant stride. We opt for the latter and Richard tells us to be quick as there might be some current and we might get washed off the wreck. As we are about to go down, Callie discovers he has left his fins on the boat! Oh no! I think Richard just about had a heart attack. He immediately wanted to know who the Divemaster was and is slightly relieved when he hears it is me! He tells Callie to meet us down at the bottom and the two of us go down. The viz is very good and we can see the wreck from the top. It is a beautiful wreck – well not one, but two – as there is a bicycle “wreck” too!  We get to see one of the giant eels the Stella Maru is famous for. Would have loved to have been  able to penetrate the wreck – but will rather not stress Richard out further!  After spending a good 25 minutes on the wreck we start going up towards the reef. Callie is low on air long before me and I am pretty sure it has to do with this leaky hoses! Ai, why does he not listen to me!

Back on the surface we decide not change cylinders immediately as the sea is very rough. This time Luc goes with and he does his first giant stride! It is a shallow dive – no deeper than 11 meters and the viz is not great with surge.  Not easy diving conditions but Luc copes very well. He still uses his arms a lot, but I think he was struggling with the surge and Richard was finning quiet fast. We see a snake eel and a pipe fish. Also a school of barracuda – Luc’s first! Luc manages yet another 45 minute dive!  The surface current is very strong and we have to hold on unto Luc and the boat to keep him from being pulled away.
Seems that both Richard and the other DM is very impressed with our diving and the plan is to take us to a 40 meter dive on Thursday called Black Forrest!  Back at Louis and Lola’s house we are received with a tall glass of Louis’s Jungle Juice and Lola’s famous chocolate cake! Man, this is the best diving! Lola immediately wanted to know if I showed the men – she told me earlier on that the men on the island think women cannot dive! I tell I think I managed to impress them! Of course we all have a great laugh at Callie with no fins – the story made it to the shore! Louis and Lola are absolutely fab hosts, jungle juice if followed by local rum tasting session and it after dark when Louis finally drop us at home! We discover that he was an deputy MD of a large insurance company in SA many years ago.  With his personality I think he did very well! And Luc decided that Lola’s chocolate cake is the best he had in a long time!

10 OCTOBER

Chez Popo Supermarket
Beautiful colours!
Stunning beach of Trou Aux Biches

MONIQUE:
We have a late morning start. Decide to put on the walking shoes and head into Trou Aux Biches to check out the village. So in exercise gear and off we go. At 10 it is already hot and after about 500 meters Luc is trying to find the bus stop! We stop to get some prices on car and scooter rental. Our next stop is at the only “supermarket” in the village,Chez Popo. We discover a cute little curio shop on the first floor, so spend some time getting little things. From there we stroll over to the main beach – which is an exquisite white beach with blue turquoise water. Apparently the snorkelling here is great. We also get to see the Beachcombers Trou Aux Biches Resort from the sea side – in Mauritius beaches are public property, so the fancy hotels cannot stop you from walking on the beaches although they can control the access to it. We stop to chat to the skipper of the TAB resort dive boat to find out where to get hold of Prodive. He phones the owner, Kevin, who is out on sea, right in front of us. It is another 800 meters walk on the beach before we get to the hotel where Prodiver is situated. We chat to Kevin, but the prices are very expensive and he is very negative about the dives far away and even the day trip we have planned. We leave there not so sure that we want to book a dive.
We decide to find Dive Dream, who got a good writeup on Tripadvisor. After another Km (and now it is about 12 and very hot) we find their office – but they are also closed on a Monday. There is another stop at a tour operator to organise the day trip to the Lagoon island on Wednesday. By this time we are very hot and tired of all the walking. It is nearly one and we are very happy when we see Chez Popo where we stop for Indian Kulfi Icecreams. On our way back we also pop into Atlantic Divers, a local dive operation where the prices are considerably cheaper.
A block from there Luc notices that the Scooba Doo Gate is open. They are a dive operation who also offers underwater scooters for non divers and Luc has been wanting to do it since we got here. At R2500 we said NO – we can do two dives for that price. Well, we decide to check out the diving prices and as we walk in we see a SA flag on the stoep.
Then we are welcomed by a very loud Frenchman, Louis, who immediately switches over to Afrikaans when he hears we are from SA. “I am a Mauritian Boer!” he shouts. He then calls his wife, Lola to come and meet us. Turns out they lived in Jburg, Houtbay and Stellenbosch for many years. He shows us photos of his grand children, who has no trace of his Mauritian blood, but look like real Boere kids. We end up at Louis and Lola for more than an hour – and Callie scores the best expresso in a long time! Lola tells us that they came to retire in Mauritius, but that the business has taken over. She is not happy at all – she will rather be in Johannesburg with her children and great shopping! But you can see that Louis is passionate about his business. After hearing that Luc wants to do the Scooba Doo, he offers to through it in free with the diving! But there is one problem – this anticyclone has made the sea conditions not great and not a lot of diving has been taking place off his tropical platform boat – which was specifically designed for the scooba doo. So we hope that the weather will be better by tomorrow.
It is well after two when we get home after our long expedition on foot. We are hot, hungry and exhausted. We chill out for the rest of the afternoon. I am frustrated with the internet as the connection is not great and trying to upload photos and videos take forever.
Dinner is a disaster. Try to make Biryani with a local mix, but we cannot understand the recipe on the packet and have to guess and it tastes strange! So, the brave ones have strange biryani and the rest have salad. We end the evening with a major Uno challenge and poor Luc gets trashed.

PS: Oh and the Kumon did finally arrive. After a long journey. Luc forgot it in CT. Mandy couriered it to Bonnie to bring with. Bonnie forgot it and had her office DHL it to Mauritius! Poor Luc – no way out on this one!

The Video!

9 OCTOBER

Lunch!
Our view from the living room
Our room.

CALLIE:
Today was big rugby day & Monique invited Bonnie (from Roman’s Pizza, who has been great in supporting Matla a Bana) & her sister Kerry over as she found out that they were visiting Mauritius in the same period. They were also not too big on the rugby but were keen to get together. It was a double header with SA vs Aus and NZ against Argentinia for the quarter final’s. Sadly we lost (some very controversial decisions ref!), but personally I think Frans Steyn could have made a huge difference, but suppose it was just not meant to be. Monique did her usual excellent host trick and after Klondike’s standard breakfast – there were no eggs, but prepared a great breakfast healthy breakfast with real muesli & good yoghurt , cheeses & selection of cold meats and lots of fruit !
The women had a great time hearing all the stories of their mishaps with bookings, & faults at their hotel room, no ham on pizza, no second helpings & not all drinks available. Monique widely acclaimed the benefits of checking details via Trip adviser first again – out of interest, I checked reviews of la Plantation hotel and there are some really bad ones ! – it is on a beautiful setting but had a owner change recently which might be the problem – Bonnie just advised that the sister hotel across road has burned down today !
We had slow chilled day further around the pool and Luc was in his element again – entertaining the ladies with his energy ! – Highlight for him and Bonnie was mission impossible to go snorkelling in 50 cm water ! He and Bonnie fell over laughing many a time for all the creatures ! and also as Bonnie warned him that she has natural buoyancy aids that would keep her afloat – that left him blushing many a time! For late lunch we had stunning tuna on the gas braai & great home made salad from Monique ! Not to mention the last of the “bargain” French chocolate 1848 & Cote d Orr –which the ladies enjoyed very much !

MONIQUE:
I must just tell you about our stunning self catering villa, Bel Azur. Admittedly, not one of the cheapest in town (one week here = same prize as Klondike with 2 meals!). But it is a two bedroom luxury villa/flat right on the beach. Although there are many rocks and very little beach, the sea views are stunning.
Then I also have to tell the about the whole snorkelling expedition. Luc decided that he was going to take Bonnie on a snorkelling expedition. He was very embarrassed when she told him that if they got washed into sea, he can just hang on to her because of her “buoyancy tools”! The two of them decided that they will be able to float all the way to India – but only if Roman’s will drop some pizzas from the air!
Well, then before that can happen, they will have to get snorkelling first! So, after sorting out gear, they hit the water. It turned out to be the entertainment of the day and Kerry and I are sitting on the beach screaming with laughter as the whole snorkelling expedition unfolds. First of all – they have to walk backwards. Then they have to find water deep enough to snorkel in. The snorkelling lasted about 30 seconds before Bonnie felt something creeping up her bum. She jumps up! Luc is in hysterics. One minute later they are back on the beach – done with snorkelling!
We chill out next to the pool most of the day. There is anti cyclone in Mauritius – which means everything is upside down – weather, water and wind. It however has not stopped us from ending up with a serious red sunburn at the end of the day.

8 October

Luc shopping!
Sausage tree!
Giant water lillies
Trees
Old house!
Market
Buying veg!
Market
Shopping mission!

MONIQUE:
Today we have to say goodbye to all the friendly staff of Klondike. We enjoy a last large breakfast of omelettes, pancakes and nice things. I tell the boys to savour every moment because the next week mom is cooking and there will be no bacon and eggs!

Our driver for the day must have been warned because he arrives with a large station wagon for all the luggage – little did he know! Callie is on a mission again and insists that we take a detour to stop at Pridemart in another town (slightly off the road) so that he can do some clothing shopping! And all along he has been telling people I am the big shopper. Allan, the driver, persuades him that there is one in Port Louis – so we set off to Port Louis, which is only a short drive because of little traffic. Poor Allan opens the door when he starts telling us about how wrong the Hindu religion is – he is Islam himself. This gives us the opportunity to talk about what we believe in. It is a very strange conversation. He says that we believe the same Bible and the same things, but when I ask whether he is sure he is going to heaven when he dies, he says no.

We then give him the Message. I also tell him about the Iranian man who was converted so radically from Islam when Jesus appeared to him in a dream. This shocks him tremendously. Afterwards Callie said that he will only hear what he wants to hear, but at least one day he will not say he did not know, because we told him!
Well, I think he wanted to get rid of these “radical” Christians, so he dropped us off at the famous Port Louis Waterfront and told us that we can walk from here to the market and China Town. We skip all the fancy shops in the Waterfront and head straight for the market. The Port Louis Market is very famous for fresh goods and then also the many stalls where you can buy baskets, Tshirts, souvenirs etc. At this stage however Callie is still on mission Pridemark.

This group sells all the rejected designer brand goods at less 70%. We finally discover it on the 1st floor of the Central Market. Within Callie is lost – amongst Tshirts, jeans, ties.... We do not find great children’s clothing and I do not have the energy to go through the rows and rows of female clothing. I must add – here you find many of the designer brands, but to figure out what number you need to get and then to que to try and fit on – just too much for someone on holiday. But we endure it all, because both Luc and myself have never seen Callie in such a shop mode. Nearly two hours later, we had enough and manage to pull him out of there with a very large bag of clothing. In retrospect – he got two pairs of designer jeans, three Reebok shirts, two designer work shirts and much more for only R 1500! So, I guess, in the end it was worth it
We shop some fresh goods in the market. The fruit is very expensive – and lots of it is imported from South Africa! Luc haggles for a Barcelona shirt and shorts – and manages to get it down to ½ price! We grab a few rotis on our way back to the taxi. By this time the heat and my feet are killing me! But the men are on a high because they got great bargains – even two pairs of sunglasses for the price of one whilst running to the taxi! And they call me the shopper!

Our next stop is the Pamplemousse Botanical Gardens. This was builtby Pierre Poivre in 1767 and is one of the oldest gardens in the Southern Hemisphere. Allan drops us of at the gate and drives off – I think this is still plan of his mission to sort out these Christians, because we get told that the entrance is on the other side. We have to walk nearly a kilometre, around the park, to get to the entrance. Believe me, at this stage we are not happy chappies. But, Callie is on a mission again – we will see the park.

We book a guide to take us through the park and this is a good choice. He is very funny! There is a large spice garden and he shows us the nutmeg trees, where you have a male and female tree. You cannot eat the nutmeg seed as it is as it is very poisonous. But he says, you can give it to your mother in law! He also shows us hundreds of fruit bats hanging high up in the trees. Coming from Africa we recognise many of the trees like the sausage tree of which the fruit weights 7 kilos. Our guide says if it falls on your head you are either dead or you will speak a strange language that no one will understand! The giant waterlilies are stunning, so also the lotus flowers. There is also a budda tree that is older than 300 years! We laugh at him when he shows us a large shrub with a pretty purple flower but a rough leave – it is called the “Mother in law’s tongue” and he says it is the same everywhere in the world. Then he adds that he has a great mother in law – when she sleeps!

We take a detour through Grand Baie, mainly to do grocery shopping for the week at the UMart. It is an enormous grocery store and we are overwhelmed with the choices. We pay an absolute fortune for luxury items like imported cold meat and stunning cheese! All the shopping leaves us with another problem – where to put it, because the big station wagon is now to small.

Trou Aux Biches, where we are staying is only 3 kms from Grand Baie, but we are right at the end of the town – which makes it more like 6km. Our villa complex is relatively isolated and far from the rest of the town – so I can see lots of walking or taking the local bus. The villas is stunning. Two bedrooms, beautifully decorated with stunning views over the pool and the sea. As I heat up some noodles we all agree that we are already missing the great dinner at Klondike. Luc is the most impressed because he has a flat screen in his room!

7 OCTOBER

Chamarel Falls
Glass blowing factory
Hindu god - Shiva

Papyrus trees
7 colours sand
Ships
Sacred lake


MONIQUE:
Early morning for the Strydoms because it is tour day today, or “Mission Callie” which turned out to be a Mission Impossible, as Callie wanted to see everything that the Island had to offer in one tour. Never mind that we only booked the South West Tour! We opted for a private drive tour – which means you have a taxi and a driver all to yourself for the whole day. Our driver is a young college student who had finished his Economics studies.

He tells us that Mauritius is 60km x 47 km and has just over 1,2 million inhabitants. Nearly 50% are Hindu, about 27% Christian and about 11% Islam. He is a Hindu himself and this leads to very interesting conversations later. Our first stop is at the Phoenix Glass Factory. This factory was started by the Phoenix Beer company in order to recycle the used glass many years ago. There is an interesting entrance hall where you can see the hand prints of famous people (and buy copies for charity). We find Percy Montgomery, Ernie Els (with enormous hands!) and Desmond Tutu there. We also watch the glass blowing process – it is truly amazing how they do it. We just feel very sorry for these men having to work in those temperatures!
There are also some interesting displays – one on the history of the Dodo – which is a big symbol here in Mauritius. It is said that the Arab slave traders used to frequent Mauritius, but it was the Portuguese explorers who came here, who killed all the dodos (they ate them!). The dodo character was made famous in Alice in Wonderland, but apparently it was not the ugly creature as many people made it out to be. What we find very humorous is the Dutch name (if translated) for the Dodo – “fat arse”! I am just waiting for my family to start calling me Dodo!

From here we experience the real tourist traps. We are taken to the supposed duty free shops. Most of them are diamond, jewellery, goods imported from India and designer label shops. Initially I could not understand where they get all these designers brands from, but then discovered that many of these brands are manufactured here. Well, we are from SA and use to haggling and saying know, so by the third stop we have left many frustrated shop owners in our wake!

The one shop where the sales people were extremely “talented” is the Ship Building Shop. Your visit here start by a “tour” to show you how they make the ships. Which is truly incredible and amazing to see. Every little detail on the ship is made with the hand. But it is when you enter the shop that the fun really starts, because then the main mission is to get you to buy a ship. So imagine what a great target you are with a 10 year old boy who cannot take his eyes of these incredible pieces! But at a starting price of R 1000 (one on sale) to R 15000, you have to make a run for it when you still can. Note – it takes a miracle to get you out of this one. If you are a mother and pretend not to be interested in ships, they have the answer. Many counters with expensive jewellery! I am saved by a phone call from South Africa. Thank goodness the reception in the shop is not great (or is it!) and I bolt for the door. It turns out that it is another mission to get Callie and Luc out of there!

Our next stop is at Trou Aux Cerfs – a 605m high extinct volcano – around which the town Curepipe is built. The crater is 300 meters wide and 85 meters deep and filled with lush vegetation. You will also find stunning views of the island from here. By this time we are ready for lunch and very thirsty, so we rush over to the mobile shop on the side of the crater – to discover that a coke costs R 30 a bottle! What we also have discovered by this time is that the aircon is not working, so we now know very well what those glass blowing men feels like every day.

By this time Callie is also full speed on “Mission Callie”, no time to stop for food, but at least he gets us water from a little spaza shop next to the road. Our driver warns us that we are entering the countryside now and that we will not find roti stands for a quick Mauritian takeaway – but no stop, lots to see!

Our next stop takes us to an amazing site – it is the 33 meter high statue of the Hindu God, Siva, on the banks of Grand Bassin. It is made from cement and done by the hand. The site of this takes us into an interesting conversation with our tour guide, whom shares a bit about their gods and believes. It turns out that he does not believe in life after death. We then tell him about what we believe, but do not really get the chance to make the message sink in. We find it both challenging and frustrating trying to share with a non believer. The Grand Bassin is a lake that also forms part of an old volcano. It is in the mountain area of Savanne and it is a holy place for the Hindu’s. Once a year the Hindu community undertakes a pilgrimage to the lake (18 hours of walking our tour guide tells us) to honour the Shiva. On the other side of the Lake there is a temple with even more statues of gods. We hear about the story of Shiva who chopped of his son’s head and then replaced it with the head of an elephant. It is interesting to see how many of these gentle people come here to do offerings, but we struggle to find any joy of spiritual fulfilment in their eyes. What we do see is that many of the tourists come out of the temple with the third eye sign painted on their foreheads. Luc also wants to join, but after explaining the true meaning he understands. I opt not to go in the temple, but rather to say a prayer for the sadness and sombreness I experienced here.

Back in the car and by now we are starving, dehydrated and tired – and Callie is still on a mission – the wrong one though! We do a quick stop at the Alessandra Falls. It is here where you can see the pink pigeon. All the two of us saw was the fruit stall and at this stage we could not care about prices! We get fresh pineapple and a bunch of bananas and is slightly more happy. We do not get to see the elusive pink pigeon, but however the natural plantation of papyrus trees make up for it. I have never realised that papyrus comes from a tree! Luc gets his certificate in haggling here. He buys a handmade letter opener (with a dodo on top) for a 100 Rupees. The vendor told him it was 200, but apparently he put up a sad face on told him he only has 100 rupees of his pocket money and the deal was made!

It is now far after lunch and we are still following many taxis and tourist busses from one stop to the next. By now we are getting to know the other groups. There is a big South African group who is by now feeling the same way we are – tired and hot and had enough! At least they are united in their thoughts, in our group Callie is still working on a plan to make a detour to a tea and a sugar plantation!

We stop at the Black River Gorge View Point. This is a national park and is absolutely spectacular. It would have been nice to have skipped all the duty free shops and rather to go for a walk in the park. Our tour guide tells us that he knows a “local” restaurant where we can eat for “cheap”, “local” prices. About MR400 a head. We are shocked – our lunch at the local Blue cafe in Flic en Flac was MR 350 for all the food and drinks! We opt out, planning to rather finish the tour and get home for late lunch at the Blue Cafe.

Charamel Park – with the 7 colours of earth and the falls is the last stop. The falls are beautiful, but it is the landscape with 7 colours of clay earth in one spot that is truly amazing. It looks like a scene out of a science fiction movie. These dunes are red, brown, violet, green, blue, purple and yellow.

Callie’s plan to stop at Sugar Beach Resort is met by a near riot in the back of the car. We do get to see the salt pans of Tamarin. By the time we get to Flic en Flac our cafe is closed to we grab late lunch for the local Spar (plus some more French chocolate!).

We meet Ratan on the beach to get Luc’s dive card – he is now a qualified diver! So proud of him! We are very sad to say goodbye to Ratan, but are already planning to come back for some more diving! He is definitely one of the best instructors/dive masters we have dived with.

Dinner takes us back to Tamarin where we visit old friend Moya (not old in age, but of many years ago). Moya, Carlo and kids have been living in Mauritius for the last 4 years and love it. Moya worked at Absa Trust and helped with Matla A Bana and Carlo also worked for Absa (now Barclays here in Mauritius). They have a stunning place bordered by forest. The kids hit the pool immediately and Callie gets updated on all the latest Absa news – big changes in the week he has been on leave. We share a lot of our Malawi expat stories and turns out that they are just as avid travellers! Luc gets an open invitation to come and visit whenever he wants to – big mistake, if Luc had a choice he would be on the beach for the rest of his life!

We squeeze in a bit a late night packing as Callie has planned yet another early morning and lots of touring for Saturday. We will be going up North tomorrow and have rented a vehicle and driver for the day, so will be doing a bit of sightseeing!

6 OCTOBER

Sat night Sega Dance show
Sunset at Klondike Pool
Luc's night beach photo
"Oh, what to eat first!" - Luc's dessert challange!
Our romantic dinner on the beach
Cocktails!
Fun

MONIQUE:
Another day of doing nothing – for some of us! Spent the morning updating Matla A Bana websites in anticipation of my radio interview later in the day. Got a request from Radio Europe to do an interview – for them morning show, but here in Mauritius mid day – which meant we could not really plan anything for the day. Luc however, being the slick operator he is, booked a dive with Rataan. I was very sad not to join him, but also felt very comfortable leaving him in the capable hands of Rataan. Must add half of the sadness was due to the realisation that he is growing up and does not need his mother to hold his hand. Not even under water – the one place I thought he would need me! So, off he went on the yellow dive boat, all on his own, waving to us standing on shore.

The interview was great and difficult at the same time. Steven – a very good radio host – asked some difficult questions. The most difficult was not telling what happened, but talking about the spiritual side of it all. Many of the questions were asked from a non-believers point of view, but I just talked about the Grace of God and the miracles we see every day. I think the most profound was our 1 minute conversation after the interview when he apologised for the tough questions telling me that he had many of the same questions. I told him to read Lee Strobel’s The Case for Christ – I am reading his God’s Outrageous Claims right now – he wrote the name down – hope he will get the book, because this is the book for people who have many questions and need scientific answers!

Took up my lap challenge with Luc late this afternoon – did 16 laps today – but my goodness, even all the weightless possibilities water offers ain’t helping. When you are over weight, it is hard word to pull your body around in water.

Dinner is a highlight in “candle light”! The boys organise for a romantic dinner on the beach. So, after being spoiled with cocktails (remember we are on budget and have been drinking water the whole week!), we are taken down to the beach where a special table has been set for us. An enormous flower bouquet from the buffet also make it to our table! This is so special and enjoy every moment of it. The chefs have taken a big liking in Luc, who in turn has taken a big liking in their food – so he arrives at the table with massive plates of food. Dessert is two plates and for a moment there he does not know where to start! We are astounded about where he puts it all.

We also tease him for showing off in front of a beautiful blond when coming back from the dive. All dressed up in his wetsuit he looked very handsome. The moment he saw the girl he switched to English, the voice dropped a few decibels and loudly he told us about all the devil fire fish he saw on the dive. This one is going to be a tease for a while! (Callie says his only concern, when seeing the blond on this way to collect Luc from the dive, was that she was going to be topless when they come back!).

PS: I ordered French toast for breakfast. The chef came to me and said they can do toast - but only Mauritius toast! Guess what it was? Toast!!!
One point for humor to Mauritius
Mauritius : 2 Seychelles: 1